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La dame au béret - Millinery

Images: Magic Owen Photography ©2015 - Model: Alissa P. + rescue fox from Weird 'n' Wonderful.

 
London Hat Week Presents Edwina Ibbotson

Edwina Ibbotson studied millinery at F.I.T (Fashion Institute of Technology) in New York with Ann Albrizio, and then at the London College of Fashion with Marie O’Regan, one day a week, whilst working for a top London Milliner, Phillip Somerville. Her weekends were spent doing classes with Rose Cory on Saturdays, and on Sundays with a wonderful French Milliner, Rolande Bouget, who was truly inspiring.

With over 20 years experience, Edwina Ibbotson’s designs are couture millinery at its very best. Her designs are flirtatious, timeless and romantic with a slight vintage feel and constructed to perfection. Her wonderful collections include chic beaded headdresses, delicate soft tulle and floral designs, demure feather headpieces, and dramatic silhouettes perfect for weddings, fashion statement pieces and social occasions.

Combining traditional millinery techniques and know-how with a modern eye, makes Edwina’s headpieces both finely crafted as well as wearable. Edwina is well respected in the millinery community for her craftsmanship and is often invited to contribute to exhibitions or judge millinery competitions.

What does a sample day for a professional milliner look like? Edwina’s typical day goes something like…

“Up early. Walk to work with my dog, think through which hats my assistants will need to work on during the day. Arrive at the shop and check clients and appointments in my diary for the days to come, order any fabrics and supplies we may need for orders and new samples. Check emails, speak with any dress designers I may be collaborating with, whilst spending as much time as possible working on pieces – ie: dying, blocking, sewing, making my own trims and construction of the hats and headdresses I am working on. Generally I have fittings with clients, see new appointments who are looking for something special during the mid-day.  All along, I will check all work is being sewn and blocked perfectly throughout the day. Send out any samples called in by magazines for photo shoots. Late in the day, when the phone has stopped ringing and I am left working on my own (apart from Sam, my dog) this is my time to totally concentrate on what I am working on, or come up with new ideas and do some paperwork. I often walk home very late (normally in the early hours), eat supper and crawl into bed usually extremely tired.”

There are many wonderful classes on offer for London Hat Week, this year Edwina is offering an exclusive four morning classic poupee making and pressing tools workshop. This style of poupee is rarely offered as a workshop. What makes Edwina’s poupees special? They are firm for shaping yet light for easy use. They carry a classic and functional appearance which work well for hat & headpiece display. This versatile millinery tool is a necessity for all serious milliners. A classic poupee combined with learning about professional pressing tools and techniques will help the hobby hat maker to become a couture milliner.

If you are unable to attend the Poupee & Pressing tools Workshop, but are still interested in learning millinery, Edwina offers Hat Class on Monday or Wednesday evenings in an ongoing program.

www.edwinaibbotson.co.uk

 
London Hat Week Presents Noel Stewart

Noel Stewart is a London based milliner with international status. Taking inspiration from contemporary art and architecture whilst using his extensive skills, he modernises millinery and creates a fresh and elegant approach to how we dress the head. Noel’s collections for men and women combine luxury materials and traditional craftsmanship with contemporary innovation.

Before attending the Royal College of Art, Noel worked with designers Dai Rees and Stephen Jones. This included time spent as Stephen Jones’s assistant at Christian Dior Couture, John Galliano and Louis Vuitton

In October 2013 Noel was appointed to the role of Creative Director of Christy and Co Hats. Having been bought by Liberty, this heritage hat brand chose Noel for his in depth understanding of the industry and his unique ability to create contemporary headwear.

Since establishing his label, Noel has designed hats for leading fashion designers such as Roland Mouret, Diesel, Roksanda Ilincic, Erdem, Hussein Chalayan, Richard Nicoll, Jaeger, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Holly Fulton, Sibling, Viktor & Rolf, Claire Barrow and Gareth Pugh. His continuing work with such designers reflects the relevance of his role in contemporary fashion.

Off the catwalk Noel Stewart has acquired a loyal fan-base. His hats have been worn by the likes of Keira Knightly, Lady Gaga, Florence Welch, Kylie Minogue and Beth Ditto. Noel Stewart Millinery is stocked in Barneys across the US, Hatwoman and I.T. in Hong Kong, Fenwick in the UK, Weave Toshi in Tokyo, Boon in Seoul Alter in Shanghai, Au Pont Rouge in St Petersberg and Online with Valery Demure and Lovehats.

Noel receives ongoing, widespread press. His hats feature regularly in magazines such as Vogue UK, Italia, Russia, China, Japan and France as well as Harpers Bazaar, Dazed and Confused, ID, V Magazine, LOVE, Dansk, Financial Times, Ponystep, AnOther and 10 Magazine. He also has featured on Dazed digital, wheelmeout, ASVOF, Glass and Vogue.it. The Design Museum chose Noel’s Ribboned Cityscape Hat to represent 2011in their book -50 Hats that changed the world and Yasmin Sewell nominated Noel for the Phaidon book – Pattern, 100 fashion designers, 10 curators.

Noel’s work also had an important role in the V & A’s exhibition ‘Stephen Jones – An Anthology of Hats’ which opened to record visitors in London and Brisbane before going on to open at the Bard graduate centre in New York.

Noel was selected to be a part of the Headonism initiative at London Fashion Week This unique initiative which champions the new wave of British Milliners highlights London as the inspirational heart of global millinery. Noel is now a British Fashion Council advisor to the current crop of Headonism milliners.

www.noelstewart.com

 
London Hat Week Presents Rachel Trevor-Morgan

Rachel Trevor-Morgan operates from her 17th century atelier in St James’s where she delivers private client commissions. Her mission is to provide her clients with the perfect hat or headpiece. She is renowned for her beautiful handwork and design resulting in the glamorous, feminine elegance on which she has built her reputation. Her success arises from a passion for her craft, and an understanding of the balance required for a hat to flatter and finish an outfit.

Rachel and her team have created a millinery business not only celebrating that craftsmanship but offering unrivalled customer service which has attracted a wide and discerning client list. Rachel is a liveryman of The Worshipful Company of Feltmakers.

Rachel collaborates with many respected designers such as Caroline Charles, Stewart Parvin, Bruce Oldfield, Neil Cunningham and Ulrich Engler, designing millinery to complement their collections.

In 2014 Rachel was granted The Royal Warrant of Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen. Since 2006, HM The Queen has worn Rachel’s hats on many high profile occasions: Royal Ascot, Her 80th birthday celebrations at St Paul’s, Her Diamond Wedding celebration at Westminster Abbey, meeting George Bush in Washington, to name but a few. Rachel also designs hats for other members of the Royal family.

Over the years Rachel has provided many of London’s top fashion retailers with beautiful and contemporary designs: these include Harrods and Selfridges, where she is a consistent customer favourite. She also supplies boutiques across the U.K and Ireland as well as exporting to the US and Japan.

Her designs have enjoyed continuous press coverage, with her hats featured on the covers and in the editorial pages of Vogue, Elle, Brides, the Daily Mail and The Sunday Times.

In 1997 Rachel launched her first bridal headdress collection and in 1999 she won the Headdress Designer Award at The Brides British Bridal Awards. Her fresh approach to bridal headwear offers an alternative to the modern bride. Rachel is known for her soft, feminine signature feathers and flowers. These pieces are for the couture bride.

Rachel’s childhood ambition was to become an actress and this developed into a keen interest in theatre costume. It is from this sense of the dramatic, coupled with her mother’s love of hats, that Rachel’s passion for millinery has evolved. Rachel gained apprenticeships with Philip Somerville and Graham Smith. The latter was her biggest influence: he offered a rigorous training in the disciplined craft of millinery whilst maintaining the individuality of design and flawless finish which are central to its art. This background has given Rachel a strong base in couture millinery where each hat is hand blocked and stitched and every flower hand dyed and rolled.

Rachel believes that glamour and elegance are timeless but draws particular inspiration from an era when millinery was de rigueur.

Rachel regularly retreats to the peace and quiet of her welsh cottage to design the collections. She lives in London with her husband and three children.

www.racheltrevormorgan.com

 
Stephen Jones for A.F.VANDEVORST / SJ AW15

 
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